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25.05.2017 - Ein Witz von einem Klettergebiet, Indianerruinen und…

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25.05.2017 - Capilla del Monte, oder sowas wie Bouldern – 8A+ zum…

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17.05.2017 - Altiplano 2017 - Five months in the stunning landscapes…

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Videos

 

Für alle, die bewegte Bilder lieben. Oder die gerne mal eine Methode abkupfern ;)...

 

Rocoto Love (8c+) at Tajgrapata (4000m), Iquique, Chile

Big thanks to Rodrigo for the invitation to the Northern Chile’s Climbing Festival at the end of June when we bolted this nice new high end line on the perfect volcanic rock of this huge stone forest. On both sides of the road to Bolivia there are some 60 routes established and another 1000 to open on walls up to almost 100m high. In addition you can visit the two magnificent National Parks of Lauca and Isluga not far away with one of the most magic places I’ve seen in my life.

I could send Rocoto Love (a tribute to the best chilli pepper in the world) in the 12th try (and for filming in the 13th again ;) after five days in the route. The very physique style demands even more than in the 3600m high Socaire a proper breathing technique on the rest points and some final explosiveness in the upper crux. Come with a not to rough rope, the drag on the last easy meters can be hard.

8B boulder at 4200m - Zonda Loca in Tuzgle, Jujuy, Argentina

A climbing paradise going insane. In a so called El Nino year this magnificent place of thousands of boulders and kilometres of beautiful volcanic cliffs for us turned into a hard challenge of burning sun, low oxygen, minus 20° at night and in the end 100km/h of wind. Despite all this I could send Zonda Loca (Zonda is a this kind of wind being brushed over the mountains – in French and German “Fön”) just before leaving.

The potential in Tuzgle isn’t explored by more than 3% and the possibilities for both high ball bouldering and rope climbing are enormous. But you have to love the rough volcanic soul of the Altiplano!

Murcielago, 8B, Brealito, Argentina – Among birds and bats and quite some sandstone

At the foot of the Altiplano in northern Argentina lies the wide and sandstone covered valley of Brealito at 2500m of altitude. The place is as calm and beautiful as it can be and there are some thousands of boulders to open (and to brush).

Murciélago is an 8m high athletic, powerful sequence of 15 hard moves (before some meters of slap) on roundly shaped holds with difficult hooks and a long way to the mantle. (I got to the edge only at the horn. Otherwise it is somewhat easier.) In three sessions and some perfect evening conditions I sent it - bats (murciélago) crossing behind me -, after three weeks of travelling towards the Altiplano through the Argentinian Andes in the end of April.

And four months to go… → www.lizardclimbing.com/trips/

Ruta de Cobre (9a) - Chiles 2nd ninth grade route in Socaire (3600m) on the Altiplano.

People call it the Mal de la Puna, the illness of the Altiplano, that is due to the lack of oxygen on this as vast as beautiful as lifeless plateau on 4000m, that spreads over thousands of kilometres in between Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru. But people could mean as well the infertile dryness, the harsh winter winds, the minus 20 degrees at night or the lack of shelter from the dazzling sun. People in general try not to stay.

We came for months. And we came – just as the miners – to exploit. But no lithium, no salt, no sulfur, and well, no copper neither are our goal. Just lines. Just roads over volcanic rock. Delicate and precise moves to moves to moves on miniscule pockets and generous cracks in red and orange rock. And shapes to dream away from what we consider to have been our causal vertical playing.

First fruit of 17 tries in the Quebrada de Nacienmento in Socaire, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, 3600m above sea level: Ruta de Cobre (Copper Street), 9a, 18m, FA. Finest resistance climbing on small pockets in a slightly overhanging wall of copper red colour (and lots of copper in the rock). Bad rest points clearly will draw the line between those who already have passed the Mal de la Puna, the in the beginning sometimes tough acclimatisation to high end sports at 4000m, and those who just pass to tick. Same thing for those, who don’t measure at least 1,80m (no idea what happens when you try to jump the crux). Same thing for those who fail to handle the cracks in too dry skin, that tend to appear after some time on this altitude. Same thing for… (You see, a lot of new issues to consider climbing on the Altiplano)

The line heads straight all the way up in between the two bad rock rails to the sides and all holds on them. But you won’t need the video to understand. Ruta de Cobre is obvious. And great to climb!

For more info, change here to our trips page!

Sardegna Bouldering - Tafoni, millions of boulders and Brigante Onesto (8B)

Ever heard of bouldering in Sardegna? No? Me neither! Why? No idea. Perhaps because many boulderers aren't that rapidly over moon because of the beauty of rock and setting as me and look more on the climbing specific features? Perhaps. And well, it is true, that steep rock (that has not been eroded by water) in most of the endless boulder fields of the island needs quite a lot of brushing, that there are either good holds, very slopy ones or no holds at all and that crystals are rather big and thus cutting. But, hey!, for all other aspects bouldering down here is outstanding! And at least on the archipelago de la Maddalena you have all this AND good rock quality. But have a look yourself. These are only some of the most beautiful lines we found in three weeks there. And with Brigante Onesto (8B) even one hard one.

Ralf Grabowski in “Walk the plank”, 9a, Rocky Wand, Kochel

Vielleicht DIE Linie in Kochel, nach 40 Tagen Arbeit diesen Oktober von Ralf erstbegangen. Über 40 Meter Kletterstrecke, Löcher wie in Céüse, Luft unterm Hintern wie in Céüse, Sprünge wie in Céüse, aber natürlich schönere Buchen. Über Nor-a-line (8b/8b+), die im oberen Drittel eine guten Rastpunkt beinhaltet, direkt hinein in die Crux von Black Flag, ein 7C Boulder mit weiten Zügen, der direkt von einem 7B mit kleinen Leisten und einem Sprung gefolgt wird. Danach dann pures Plaisir und ganz zum Ende noch ein Eleminator-Zug. Glückwunsch und auf weitere spektakuläre Linien im zweiten Stock dieser abgefahrenen Wand!

Homage - 10 years in Fribourg/Switzerland 2006-2015

The project “Homage” that I now realised exclusively for the Milano Montagna Video Awards 2016 has been on my mind since this spring time. I was walking down a road in Castro, Chiloé, Chile thinking about a possible short film about my home valley of the past ten years – the Jaun Valley, including climbing spots like Charmey, Jansegg, Gastlosen. Places in which I had spend in average at least two days of every of the last 500 weeks and which for me is clearly my climbing home. Even that I am not Swiss. Everything hard up there has been developed during this period of time by a couple of friends and by now you can find five 9a, one 9a+, one 9a+/9b and one 9b. More than everywhere else in Switzerland. But this is not the most important point about it, not the only reason for my conviction. Above all it is a matter of beauty and aesthetics that made and make me love this valley.

By then (walking down the Chilean road, looking for some completos) I already had some footage (e.g. of Des scènes bizarres dans la mine d'or) and others was about to be produced once we were back to Europe this summer (Meiose). In addition I had discovered two new techniques: Time lapses and drone filming. And well, when you use to climb in a place like this, getting high quality footage is not that difficult. So I decided not to submit one of my existing climbing videos, but a brand new one. Here it is...

The project ONE - one year in one room with a ecological footprint of one. Including “Mongolia 8B/8B+”

One year in one room with a ecological footprint of one. Including “Mongolia 8B/8B+”

This video isn't meant that much as a documentation of high athlete performance, but more as an inspiration to all of you who would like to do less harm to our planet. It's the story of four people on 30m². One room, a yurt and the most beautiful way of living I know. One year of reduced mobility, consumption for the best climbing shape ever. And a very creative way of rock climbing only five minutes of walking away.
Step lightly, live simply, show some courage against your own habits!

The art of mixing chromosomes - Meiose, 9b, Charmey, Switzerland

Wow. What else to say? The perfect ending of a perfect climbing year. Life is beautiful!

There’s only four ways to get it unravelled – Linking the two Chromosome-9a in a last lucky effort, to what it was meant to be: Meiose, La Tribune, Charmey. My first 9b.

Azul es el cielo de los ciegos - South America’s first 9a in Piedra Parada, Argentina.

Muchas gracias amigos por un tiempo incredibele!

Six weeks in great landscapes, great climbing, but above all with great people. The ultimate roots ambiance and the ultimate place to come down from your western urges.

More than 30 tries in the unique surrounding of the Calavera, the darkest place I ever climbed in. When blue skies just ahead are blinding your eyes you'll have to wait for Patagonian autumn to see.

Full story on lizardclimbing.com.