25.02.2017 - New partners for the new year(s) to come - Up from…
20.02.2017 - Diebe der Ästhetik – Drei Wochen zwischen den vielleicht…
03.01.2017 - Achtmal 9a und schwerer – von Adam Ondra zum Programm…
18.10.2016 - Stark und erfolglos - Seit vier Monaten wieder im Lande,…
16.06.2016 - Schlusspunkt oder eher Schlussschleife
Für alle, die bewegte Bilder lieben. Oder die gerne mal eine Methode abkupfern ;)...
Sardegna Bouldering - Tafoni, millions of boulders and Brigante Onesto (8B)
Ever heard of bouldering in Sardegna? No? Me neither! Why? No idea. Perhaps because many boulderers aren't that rapidly over moon because of the beauty of rock and setting as me and look more on the climbing specific features? Perhaps. And well, it is true, that steep rock (that has not been eroded by water) in most of the endless boulder fields of the island needs quite a lot of brushing, that there are either good holds, very slopy ones or no holds at all and that crystals are rather big and thus cutting. But, hey!, for all other aspects bouldering down here is outstanding! And at least on the archipelago de la Maddalena you have all this AND good rock quality. But have a look yourself. These are only some of the most beautiful lines we found in three weeks there. And with Brigante Onesto (8B) even one hard one.
Ralf Grabowski in “Walk the plank”, 9a, Rocky Wand, Kochel
Vielleicht DIE Linie in Kochel, nach 40 Tagen Arbeit diesen Oktober von Ralf erstbegangen. Über 40 Meter Kletterstrecke, Löcher wie in Céüse, Luft unterm Hintern wie in Céüse, Sprünge wie in Céüse, aber natürlich schönere Buchen. Über Nor-a-line (8b/8b+), die im oberen Drittel eine guten Rastpunkt beinhaltet, direkt hinein in die Crux von Black Flag, ein 7C Boulder mit weiten Zügen, der direkt von einem 7B mit kleinen Leisten und einem Sprung gefolgt wird. Danach dann pures Plaisir und ganz zum Ende noch ein Eleminator-Zug. Glückwunsch und auf weitere spektakuläre Linien im zweiten Stock dieser abgefahrenen Wand!
Homage - 10 years in Fribourg/Switzerland 2006-2015
The project “Homage” that I now realised exclusively for the Milano Montagna Video Awards 2016 has been on my mind since this spring time. I was walking down a road in Castro, Chiloé, Chile thinking about a possible short film about my home valley of the past ten years – the Jaun Valley, including climbing spots like Charmey, Jansegg, Gastlosen. Places in which I had spend in average at least two days of every of the last 500 weeks and which for me is clearly my climbing home. Even that I am not Swiss. Everything hard up there has been developed during this period of time by a couple of friends and by now you can find five 9a, one 9a+, one 9a+/9b and one 9b. More than everywhere else in Switzerland. But this is not the most important point about it, not the only reason for my conviction. Above all it is a matter of beauty and aesthetics that made and make me love this valley.
By then (walking down the Chilean road, looking for some completos) I already had some footage (e.g. of Des scènes bizarres dans la mine d'or) and others was about to be produced once we were back to Europe this summer (Meiose). In addition I had discovered two new techniques: Time lapses and drone filming. And well, when you use to climb in a place like this, getting high quality footage is not that difficult. So I decided not to submit one of my existing climbing videos, but a brand new one. Here it is...
The project ONE - one year in one room with a ecological footprint of one. Including “Mongolia 8B/8B+”
One year in one room with a ecological footprint of one. Including “Mongolia 8B/8B+”
This video isn't meant that much as a documentation of high athlete performance, but more as an inspiration to all of you who would like to do less harm to our planet. It's the story of four people on 30m². One room, a yurt and the most beautiful way of living I know. One year of reduced mobility, consumption for the best climbing shape ever. And a very creative way of rock climbing only five minutes of walking away.
The art of mixing chromosomes - Meiose, 9b, Charmey, Switzerland
Wow. What else to say? The perfect ending of a perfect climbing year. Life is beautiful!
There’s only four ways to get it unravelled – Linking the two Chromosome-9a in a last lucky effort, to what it was meant to be: Meiose, La Tribune, Charmey. My first 9b.
Azul es el cielo de los ciegos - South America’s first 9a in Piedra Parada, Argentina.
Muchas gracias amigos por un tiempo incredibele!
Six weeks in great landscapes, great climbing, but above all with great people. The ultimate roots ambiance and the ultimate place to come down from your western urges.
More than 30 tries in the unique surrounding of the Calavera, the darkest place I ever climbed in. When blue skies just ahead are blinding your eyes you'll have to wait for Patagonian autumn to see.
Full story on lizardclimbing.com.
Impressions from El Chaltén - Including “Wasabi” (8B) and “El Ultimo Mate” (8B)
One of the most impressing landscapes on planet earth and some really nice bouldering, too. We passed two times for a little more than one week during this outstanding Patagonian summer with more good weather windows than bad ones. More of a bathing trip, than of a high level sport one, but definitely the best way to gain some form after almost two months off climbing again. Maybe one day we'll be back for one of these alluring walls...
The cold and smelly breath of death, 8B+/8C, Dorotea, Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile
We wanted to leave El Chalten to visit Puerto Natales for only some days, but then I found this line. Never have seen rock like this before, never have made moves like this. Never in a spot like this. In the end it turned out to be pretty hard, 10 days of work. The best way to get back in shape after two months of no or only very few climbing. My tribute to greener traveling.
Mediomalomania (8C) - Switzerlands hardest boulder traverse in Lindental near Bern (8C+ trav)
What resisted to my trying more than 35 days in 2013, worked out in 3 days this year (2015) as an intermediate project to Meiose (9b) in Charmey. (My baby girl wasn't keen on rope climbing and this was the only spot she liked.) 30 moves on nice molasse sandstone with a 8B section in the beginning, a 8B traverse over the next 15 moves and a last redpoint crux on bad slopers (7B+).
Bateria - Pirmin Bertle in Indias hardest Boulder - Bacteria, 8B+, at 4000m
Craziest bouldering conditions I ever climbed in. 4000m above sea level, high after every try from the low oxygen, an air as dry as just the dust up there, the stomach full of bacteria, the fingers painful from never healing cuts and the most flashing landscape I have ever lived in.