News

25.05.2017 - Ein Witz von einem Klettergebiet, Indianerruinen und…

Mehr...

25.05.2017 - Capilla del Monte, oder sowas wie Bouldern – 8A+ zum…

Mehr...

25.05.2017 - Aus dem Staub der Soja-Monokultur zwischen die ersten…

Mehr...

25.05.2017 - Of mice and men – Über München, Madrid, Santiago, Montevideo…

Mehr...

17.05.2017 - Altiplano 2017 - Five months in the stunning landscapes…

Mehr...

Alle News...

Videos

 

Für alle, die bewegte Bilder lieben. Oder die gerne mal eine Methode abkupfern ;)...

 

Impressions from El Chaltén - Including “Wasabi” (8B) and “El Ultimo Mate” (8B)

One of the most impressing landscapes on planet earth and some really nice bouldering, too. We passed two times for a little more than one week during this outstanding Patagonian summer with more good weather windows than bad ones. More of a bathing trip, than of a high level sport one, but definitely the best way to gain some form after almost two months off climbing again. Maybe one day we'll be back for one of these alluring walls...

The cold and smelly breath of death, 8B+/8C, Dorotea, Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile

We wanted to leave El Chalten to visit Puerto Natales for only some days, but then I found this line. Never have seen rock like this before, never have made moves like this. Never in a spot like this. In the end it turned out to be pretty hard, 10 days of work. The best way to get back in shape after two months of no or only very few climbing. My tribute to greener traveling.

Mediomalomania (8C) - Switzerlands hardest boulder traverse in Lindental near Bern (8C+ trav)

What resisted to my trying more than 35 days in 2013, worked out in 3 days this year (2015) as an intermediate project to Meiose (9b) in Charmey. (My baby girl wasn't keen on rope climbing and this was the only spot she liked.) 30 moves on nice molasse sandstone with a 8B section in the beginning, a 8B traverse over the next 15 moves and a last redpoint crux on bad slopers (7B+).

Bateria - Pirmin Bertle in Indias hardest Boulder - Bacteria, 8B+, at 4000m

Craziest bouldering conditions I ever climbed in. 4000m above sea level, high after every try from the low oxygen, an air as dry as just the dust up there, the stomach full of bacteria, the fingers painful from never healing cuts and the most flashing landscape I have ever lived in.

Pirmin Bertle in "Des scènes bizzarres dans la mine d'or", 9a+, in Jansegg

 

Wired scenes inside the gold mine.
One summer with 16 days in the route and 12 kilos less than last year. About 8a to a moderate rest, 8B, a good rest, 7C+/8A and 7b+ to the top.

Drop a line, 8C+, at Cousimbert, the real video

A dream I didn't even owe to dream came true. 30 to 40 days throughout one winter without a single day regressing. Five days to do only the single moves of this 20+ moves problem in perfect sandstone. Read the story on lizardclimbing.com

The crystal ship is being filled
A thousand girls, a thousand thrills
A million ways to spend your time
When we get back, I'll drop a line

Roots in the basement (ext)

Trying to get my winter's exploits on tape... Stopped after the easiest one of four. Summer in the are of climate change can be even too hot to just do the single passages of accomplished projects that have all between 15 to 20 moves. But you get an impression of how the bouldering in Cousimbert looks like. And especially the hardest piece of rock on earth (in high end boulders per square meter ;))...

Sorry for the spelling mistake in the name of the boulder on the video.

Drop a line

Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!

Four days in Targasonne

Can there be something more beautiful than bouldering in this magnificant scenery, in the first week of springtime, in windy, dry, perfect conditions? Yes, there can. Having all this AND an excellent form.

Creature 8B
Bouillon de culture 8A+
Tombeau assis 8A+
Eroto mecanics 8A/8A+
Le seigneur des annales 8A
Pardon 8A

Eight weeks without darkness - Europe’s most scenic bouldering (part two)

My first bouldering trip that made me sometimes forget about bouldering. Because of the beauty of the landscape, the never ending light and the great wilderness. The hiking, the bathing and the hanging out.

But only sometimes. Then we hit on some unbelievable piece of rock again, or some unbrushed line we always dreamt of, or we suddenly found ourselves in front of the perfect boulder picture. It is hard to imagine a place in Europe where bouldering is so stunning. And where boulders are so damn frequent.

We made it nearly to the North Cape. Visiting Matre, Harbak, Vingsand, Straumen, the Magic Valley and the Lofoten. And we could hardly convince ourselves to get back home…

In part two: Magic Valley and the Lofoten.