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25.05.2017 - Ein Witz von einem Klettergebiet, Indianerruinen und…

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25.05.2017 - Capilla del Monte, oder sowas wie Bouldern – 8A+ zum…

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25.05.2017 - Aus dem Staub der Soja-Monokultur zwischen die ersten…

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25.05.2017 - Of mice and men – Über München, Madrid, Santiago, Montevideo…

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17.05.2017 - Altiplano 2017 - Five months in the stunning landscapes…

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Videos

 

Für alle, die bewegte Bilder lieben. Oder die gerne mal eine Methode abkupfern ;)...

 

Pirmin Bertle in "Des scènes bizzarres dans la mine d'or", 9a+, in Jansegg

 

Wired scenes inside the gold mine.
One summer with 16 days in the route and 12 kilos less than last year. About 8a to a moderate rest, 8B, a good rest, 7C+/8A and 7b+ to the top.

Drop a line, 8C+, at Cousimbert, the real video

A dream I didn't even owe to dream came true. 30 to 40 days throughout one winter without a single day regressing. Five days to do only the single moves of this 20+ moves problem in perfect sandstone. Read the story on lizardclimbing.com

The crystal ship is being filled
A thousand girls, a thousand thrills
A million ways to spend your time
When we get back, I'll drop a line

Roots in the basement (ext)

Trying to get my winter's exploits on tape... Stopped after the easiest one of four. Summer in the are of climate change can be even too hot to just do the single passages of accomplished projects that have all between 15 to 20 moves. But you get an impression of how the bouldering in Cousimbert looks like. And especially the hardest piece of rock on earth (in high end boulders per square meter ;))...

Sorry for the spelling mistake in the name of the boulder on the video.

Drop a line

Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!

Four days in Targasonne

Can there be something more beautiful than bouldering in this magnificant scenery, in the first week of springtime, in windy, dry, perfect conditions? Yes, there can. Having all this AND an excellent form.

Creature 8B
Bouillon de culture 8A+
Tombeau assis 8A+
Eroto mecanics 8A/8A+
Le seigneur des annales 8A
Pardon 8A

Eight weeks without darkness - Europe’s most scenic bouldering (part two)

My first bouldering trip that made me sometimes forget about bouldering. Because of the beauty of the landscape, the never ending light and the great wilderness. The hiking, the bathing and the hanging out.

But only sometimes. Then we hit on some unbelievable piece of rock again, or some unbrushed line we always dreamt of, or we suddenly found ourselves in front of the perfect boulder picture. It is hard to imagine a place in Europe where bouldering is so stunning. And where boulders are so damn frequent.

We made it nearly to the North Cape. Visiting Matre, Harbak, Vingsand, Straumen, the Magic Valley and the Lofoten. And we could hardly convince ourselves to get back home…

In part two: Magic Valley and the Lofoten.

Eight weeks without darkness - Europe’s most scenic bouldering (part one)

My first bouldering trip that made me sometimes forget about bouldering. Because of the beauty of the landscape, the never ending light and the great wilderness. The hiking, the bathing and the hanging out.

But only sometimes. Then we hit on some unbelievable piece of rock again, or some unbrushed line we always dreamt of, or we suddenly found ourselves in front of the perfect boulder picture. It is hard to imagine a place in Europe where bouldering is so stunning. And where boulders are so damn frequent.

We made it nearly to the North Cape. Visiting Matre, Harbak, Vingsand, Straumen, the Magic Valley and the Lofoten. And we could hardly convince ourselves to get back home…

In part one: Matre, Harbak, Vingsand and Straumen.

New boulders in Swizzy - Pirmin Bertle sending "Roots in the basement" (8A+) and working on "Underclass poem" (8C?)

What do you do, when you find yourself in the darkest winter since men do record the darkness of winters? And what do you do, when it is the most humid winter for more than 20 years, too?

You better find some dry and frozen boulders with perfect grip in midst of a lot of snow and just about 10km from your home town. We had this luck about one year ago on the Cousimbert next to Fribourg. And it is not just something climbable but really nice sandstone, space for up to 100 lines and truly high stuff, too. And above all we found some totally logic, pretty hard lines. Like "Underclass poem" SD that is supposed to become the first 8C boulder around, or one of the already sent four lines up from 8A. But have a look yourself…

Minimalomania (Fb8C+/9A trav.) - The new boulder traverse test piece in Lindental and my hardest climbing ever.

The big final of a crazy projecting process! Two days before the springtime bird protection closure –on January the 29th – I could finally send these 25 hardest moves in my life. 5 months and 40 days of work on a piece of rock in the Lindental near Bern/Switzerland that was meant to be much longer but showed off to be infernally hard.

Sophisticated climbing on perfect sandstone; big moves, tiny crimps and delicate foot work in a bloody tiring run through without any rest. 4 moves of 8B+ plus 11 moves of 8B traverse and 9 moves of 7B boulder to the top jug. I never have given so much of me into a project but on this windy day with perfect conditions and the most professional preparation I’ve ever managed it finally paid off :)

Thanks to Edelrid and Maiday. Read more on lizardclimbing.com!

Parmi les clochards (8B) - Tuff bouldering in the most picturesque down-and-out setting ever :)

Tripping through Europe, sleeping in ruins, caves and unfinished houses I often felt a bit like an outdoor down-and-out. Now finally, I dedicated a boulder to our non-climbing brothers in spirit: Parmi les clochards (“Among down-and-outs”) is situated exactly where I want to live if climbing doesn’t turn out as a solution to make my living. Under a waterproof bridge, near a river deep enough for bathing, in a picturesque old town setting and – well – just next to some more boulders: In the historical center of Fribourg.

The 16 moves on tuff rock on that bridge built in 1746 demands primarily pocket climbing, a high precision and a solid finger skin. It is the hardest boulder in the canton of Fribourg and actually - I found out - it is my hardest non traversing one as well :)