25.05.2017 - Ein Witz von einem Klettergebiet, Indianerruinen und…
25.05.2017 - Capilla del Monte, oder sowas wie Bouldern – 8A+ zum…
25.05.2017 - Aus dem Staub der Soja-Monokultur zwischen die ersten…
25.05.2017 - Of mice and men – Über München, Madrid, Santiago, Montevideo…
17.05.2017 - Altiplano 2017 - Five months in the stunning landscapes…
Für alle, die bewegte Bilder lieben. Oder die gerne mal eine Methode abkupfern ;)...
Eight weeks without darkness - Europe’s most scenic bouldering (part one)
My first bouldering trip that made me sometimes forget about bouldering. Because of the beauty of the landscape, the never ending light and the great wilderness. The hiking, the bathing and the hanging out.
But only sometimes. Then we hit on some unbelievable piece of rock again, or some unbrushed line we always dreamt of, or we suddenly found ourselves in front of the perfect boulder picture. It is hard to imagine a place in Europe where bouldering is so stunning. And where boulders are so damn frequent.
We made it nearly to the North Cape. Visiting Matre, Harbak, Vingsand, Straumen, the Magic Valley and the Lofoten. And we could hardly convince ourselves to get back home…
In part one: Matre, Harbak, Vingsand and Straumen.
New boulders in Swizzy - Pirmin Bertle sending "Roots in the basement" (8A+) and working on "Underclass poem" (8C?)
What do you do, when you find yourself in the darkest winter since men do record the darkness of winters? And what do you do, when it is the most humid winter for more than 20 years, too?
Minimalomania (Fb8C+/9A trav.) - The new boulder traverse test piece in Lindental and my hardest climbing ever.
The big final of a crazy projecting process! Two days before the springtime bird protection closure –on January the 29th – I could finally send these 25 hardest moves in my life. 5 months and 40 days of work on a piece of rock in the Lindental near Bern/Switzerland that was meant to be much longer but showed off to be infernally hard.
Sophisticated climbing on perfect sandstone; big moves, tiny crimps and delicate foot work in a bloody tiring run through without any rest. 4 moves of 8B+ plus 11 moves of 8B traverse and 9 moves of 7B boulder to the top jug. I never have given so much of me into a project but on this windy day with perfect conditions and the most professional preparation I’ve ever managed it finally paid off :)
Thanks to Edelrid and Maiday. Read more on lizardclimbing.com!
Parmi les clochards (8B) - Tuff bouldering in the most picturesque down-and-out setting ever :)
Tripping through Europe, sleeping in ruins, caves and unfinished houses I often felt a bit like an outdoor down-and-out. Now finally, I dedicated a boulder to our non-climbing brothers in spirit: Parmi les clochards (“Among down-and-outs”) is situated exactly where I want to live if climbing doesn’t turn out as a solution to make my living. Under a waterproof bridge, near a river deep enough for bathing, in a picturesque old town setting and – well – just next to some more boulders: In the historical center of Fribourg.
Pirmin Bertle in "Le lézard communiste" (8c/8c+), one of Switzerlands most beautiful high end routes!
"When performance isn’t wowing, better choose some beautiful climbing to stay psyched...". After a summer with only some bouldering I am retaking some steps towards route climbing. "Le lézard communiste" (8c/8c+) at the Jansegg, near the Gastlosen in Fribourg/Switzerland is the first of them. It took me about 15 tries to send this line of outstanding rock and crazy moves on the incomparable "shield" up at 1800 meters.
On a athletic 8a+ traversing part on good holds follows a moderate rest. The next 10 moves are one of the best I've ever climbed regarding the techniques and the holds. The boulder is about 7C+ and finishes in a good rest with a 10 meters 7a+ to the anchor. And this exit was just the easy one for this year. Instead the 7C+ there is waiting a 8B/8B+ on the original line. A nice 9a+ for next summer :)!
First ascent world record
The fastest first ascent of two 9a routes ever! Pirmin Bertle sends Chromosome X and Chromosome Y the 03/30/2012 betweenand 8:15 pm at the Tribune in Charmey/Switzerland. These are his 6th and 7th 9a at all. Two weeks earlier his son was born...
Interview mit Pirmin, by Matthias Ryffel
20 Minuten höchst interessantes Gebrabbel über alles das, was Du noch nie wissen wolltest. So manches vom Klettern, so manches vom Leben als obdachloser Outdoorpenner und so manches über ganz andere Dinge, Gott die Welt und was noch bleibt, wenn die beiden nach Hause gegengen sind...
Pirmin Bertle sending "appel au sodom", 8c in Roche/Switzerland
A 45° traverse in a 45° overhang on for northern alp limestone really outstanding rock. Crimps and slopers, mixed up with pockets und monster jugs. Two Fb7b+ parts with a moderate rest point in between (yes, its better having a knee pad), followed by some potential drop out moves on the very top. It’s easier now, having a video, but the sequences are pretty tricky. First ascender Lionel Clerc did it without any hooking. Chapeau!
Pirmin Bertle sending "Jungle speed", 9a, in Siurana the 23.03.11
One of the last not that warm days in Catalunya this springtime and in a magnificent shape "Jungle speed" found me irresistible. First go of the day. A real walk through. Furthermore my 4th 9a during the last 12 months and together with "Leche caliente" (8c) and "Chocolate caliente" (8c+) my 3rd hard route on this trip.
Pirmin Bertle in "Dures Limites", 8c, Céüse, France
„Dures Limites“, 8c in Céüse, eine der wenigen natürlichen Linien in dem Grad am Fels und wirklich ein Empfehlung wert.
Filmen kann wirklich ein ganz schöner Knochenjob sein, vor allem wenn die Route, die aufs Band soll, Teil des Riegels von Céüse ist auf luftigen 600 Höhenmetern Zustieg. Und wenn es zudem bereits um 9 an den Fels gehen soll in der prallen Sonne und mir allerlei Stativen und Co. Und wenn zudem der Abend zuvor in einem Gelage erst um 4 Uhr Nachts geendet hat. Dann ist filmen ein wirklicher Knochenjob und im Gegensatz zu Photoshop kann man es hinterher nicht mal richtig weg retuschieren ;). Sei’s drum die Aktion war sehr interessant und das Ergebnis sehenswert. Danke Flo Murnig!